Connecting Drain Hose
Genuine replacement dishwasher drain hose – compatible with Haier, Candy, Hoover, Teka and Nardi dishwashers as shown unless advised otherwise
Description
This is the short internal hose that connects the heat exchanger to the wash tub inside the dishwasher, sometimes called an internal drain pipe.
It is a completely different component from the long external drain hose that runs from the appliance to the household waste pipe, so be sure which of the two has failed before ordering. Its job is to move water between the heat exchanger and the tub during the fill, wash, rinse and drain phases of the cycle, which means it is permanently wet, repeatedly heated and constantly under pressure from the circulating pump. Because it sits inside the cabinet, the hose is made from a heat-resistant, detergent-resistant polymer that will not soften, crack, or collapse when hot water passes through it many times a day.
This genuine replacement is produced to the dishwasher manufacturer's own tolerances, so the moulded end fittings, bore and bend geometry match the original exactly and the hose seats onto the heat exchanger and tub spigots first time without being stretched or forced.
Internal connecting hoses fail quietly rather than dramatically. The first sign is usually a small amount of water collecting in the base tray, which the leak detection system may detect as a flood fault, or a drip visible beneath the machine when you remove the plinth. Splits commonly open up at the moulded ends, where the hose is clamped onto a spigot and flexed each time the appliance heats and cools, and the corrugated wall can develop pinholes where it has rubbed against a sharp internal edge or been trapped during a previous repair. Scale and grease build up inside the bore over time, narrowing the passage until water cannot move between the heat exchanger and tub quickly enough, which shows up as incomplete fills or drainage that takes too long. A hardened or kinked hose is just as problematic, because it restricts flow while looking perfectly serviceable from the outside.
Technical Notes
Specifications: Genuine internal connecting hose for domestic dishwashers, also described as a heat exchanger-to-tub hose or internal drain pipe. Overall length is approximately 40 cm. The hose is a flexible corrugated polymer tube with moulded push-fit end connectors, supplied with the retaining clips used by the original assembly, and is manufactured to withstand continuous contact with hot detergent solution and rinse water at normal dishwasher operating temperatures. Product code: 49091816. This is an internal hose and is not the main external drain hose that connects the appliance to the household waste pipe.
Fitment guidance: This hose is confirmed for the Haier, Candy, Hoover, Teka and Nardi dishwasher models listed below. The model number is printed on the rating plate, which is usually found on the edge of the dishwasher door, on the side of the tub behind the door seal, or on the rear of the appliance. Match the complete model number, including any numbers shown in brackets after it. Internal hoses are particularly easy to mis-order because so many share a similar appearance while differing in length, bore size and connector diameter, so never order on looks alone. Note that Hoover, Teka and Nardi are shown as TBC in the compatibility sections — please confirm your model number with our team before ordering for those brands.
Diagnostic tip: Isolate the power and water before investigating. Remove the plinth or kickboard and inspect the base tray for standing water, which is the clearest indication of an internal leak. Dry the area thoroughly, run a short cycle with the appliance pulled forward and watch the hose under pressure — pinholes and splits at the moulded ends frequently only weep when water is flowing. Flex the hose gently along its length in good light; any crack that opens up means the hose is perished. Check the bore by looking through it towards a light source, and replace the hose if the internal passage is visibly narrowed by scale or grease. Confirm the circulating pump runs and check the sump filter, non-return valve and heat exchanger connections before concluding that the hose is at fault, since a blocked filter can produce very similar symptoms.
Installation guide: 1. Switch off and unplug the dishwasher, or isolate the dedicated circuit at the consumer unit, and turn off the water supply. 2. Allow the machine to cool and run a drain cycle if possible, then pull the appliance forward and lay a towel underneath. 3. Remove the plinth or kickboard and, where necessary, the lower access panel. 4. Photograph the hose routing and the position of any clips before disturbing anything. 5. Release the retaining clips at the heat exchanger and tub ends, twisting the hose gently as you pull it free, and catch any residual water in a shallow container. 6. Compare the old hose with the new one for length, bore and connector shape before fitting. 7. Push the new hose fully onto the heat exchanger spigot and refit the clip, checking that the sealing collar sits squarely and is not twisted. 8. Repeat at the tub end, again pushing the hose fully home before tightening. 9. Route the hose along its original path, clear of sharp edges, hot components and moving parts, and secure it with the clips provided. 10. Restore the power and water, run a short cycle and check both joints and the full length of the hose for weeping before refitting the panels and pushing the appliance back into position.
Safety note: Always isolate the electrical supply before working inside a dishwasher, as water and mains voltage are present in the same cabinet. Residual water in the sump, heat exchanger and hoses can be hot, so allow the appliance to cool before disconnecting anything. Never reuse a hardened or distorted sealing collar, and do not cut or shorten the hose to make it fit. Where the dishwasher is integrated beneath a worktop, take care not to trap the hose when sliding the appliance back, as a crushed hose will fail again quickly.
CANDY DISHWASHER
CDIH 1D952, CDIH 1L949, CDIH 1L949-08, CDIH 2D1145, CDIH 2L1047, CDIH 2L952-80, CDIH 2T1047-80, CDIH 2T1145, CDPH 2D1045X, CDPH 2D1145X, CDPH 2D1149X-08, CDPH 2L1049B-80, CDPH 2L952X-08, CDSH 1D952
HAIER DISHWASHER
BDIH 1L952-80 (32901521), CDIH 1D952, CDIH 1L949 (32901427), CDIH 1L949-08 (32901456), CDIH 2D1047-08, CDIH 2D1145 (32901548), CDIH 2L1047 (32901457), CDIH 2L1047-08, CDIH 2L952-80 (32901510), CDIH 2T1047-80 (32901525), CDIH 2T1145 (32901547), CDPH 2D1045X (32002247), CDPH 2D1145X (32002251), CDPH 2D1149W-08, CDPH 2D1149X-08 (32002249), CDPH 2D947X-86 (32002259), CDPH 2L1049B-80 (32002261), CDPH 2L952W-08, CDPH 2L952X-08 (32002263), CDSH 1D952 (32901549), DW10-198BT2RU, DW10-198BT3RU, DW60CHPW1, DW60CHPX1, DW60CHW1, DW60CHX1, DW60CKW1, DW60CKX1, DW60FC1W1, DW60FC1X1, DW60FC2W1, DW60FC2X1, DW60FC4W1, DW60FC4X1, DW60FC6W1, DW60FC6X1, DW60FEX1, DW60OUC2X, DW60OUC6B, DW60OUC6X, DW60OUD6B, DW60OUD6X, DW60U2I1, DW60U6I1, DW60UZ6B, HDIH2D94980 (32901511), HDPH 2D1049W-80 (32002253), HDPH 2D945W-86 (32002252), HDSH 2D11453 (32901558), HDW10F1S1, HDW13G1W, HDW13G1X, HDW13V1B1, HDW13V1G1, HDW13V1S1, HDW13V1W1, HDW14G2W, HDW14G2X, HDW153G3W, HDW153G3X, HDW15V2B2, HDW15V2S1, HDW15V2S2, HDW15V2W1, HDW15V2W2, HDW15V3S1, HDW15V3W1, HDWE10-292RU, HDWE11-194RU, HDWE11-36SS4RU, HDWE13-191RU, HDWE14-094RU, HDWE14-292RU, HDWE9-191RU, HMIH 2T1047-80 (32901519), IDIH1L95280 (32901534), RDIH 2T1045-11 (32901515), RDIH 2T1145-47 (32901513)
HOOVER DISHWASHER
TBC – Please check your model number with our team to confirm fitment.
NARDI DISHWASHER
TBC – Please check your model number with our team to confirm fitment.
TEKA DISHWASHER
TBC – Please check your model number with our team to confirm fitment.
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| Further Description |
Common Faults & SymptomsThe following symptoms are commonly reported when this part begins to fail. Use this as a diagnostic guide before ordering a replacement — if more than one of these is present, the part is the likely culprit. 1
Water Collecting In The Base Tray
Standing water is found in the base of the appliance once the plinth is removed, or the machine shuts down mid-cycle because its leak detection system has been triggered. An internal connecting hose that has split at one of its moulded ends is one of the most frequent causes. Dry the base thoroughly and run a short cycle with the appliance pulled forward so the source of the drip can be seen.
2
The Cycle Stops Partway Through With A Flood Warning
The programme aborts, the drain pump often runs continuously, and the display may show a water or flood related indicator depending on the model. This is the appliance protecting itself after water has reached the base tray. On Haier and Candy models this is typically shown as a water inlet or drainage related code, while on other models it appears as a flashing programme indicator. Isolate the power, empty the base tray and inspect the internal hose before resetting.
3
The Machine Will Not Fill Or Fills Very Slowly
The dishwasher starts its cycle but the wash arms barely turn and the dishes come out dry or dirty. A partially restricted internal hose, narrowed by scale or grease, prevents water moving from the heat exchanger into the tub at the required rate. Check the hose bore for a build-up of deposits and confirm the fill valve and sump filter are clear before replacing the hose.
4
Damp Or Water Damage Around The Cabinet Base
The floor, cabinet base or adjacent kickboard feels damp or shows early swelling, even though no water is visible inside the tub. A slow weep from a pinhole in the corrugated wall can go unnoticed for weeks because the water evaporates or runs under the appliance. Feel along the full length of the hose with a dry tissue to trace the source.
5
The Hose Has Hardened Or Cracked At The Ends
The tube no longer flexes and hairline cracks are visible where the hose is clamped onto the heat exchanger or tub spigot. Repeated heating and cooling cycles make the polymer brittle over time, and the ends are where the movement is greatest. A hose in this condition will fail completely before long, so replacement is the sensible course even if it is not yet leaking.
6
A Sour Or Stagnant Smell From Inside The Cabinet
The appliance smells unpleasant even after the filters have been cleaned, and the odour lingers when the door is opened. An internal hose coated with a greasy film of food deposits traps bacteria and stale water, particularly where the hose dips or where flow has become sluggish. Inspect the bore and replace the hose if the internal surface cannot be cleaned properly.
7
Water Left In The Tub After The Cycle Ends
The cycle finishes but a shallow layer of water remains in the bottom of the dishwasher. This can be caused by a kinked or crushed internal hose preventing the last of the water from transferring, or by debris lodged in the hose or non-return valve. Straighten the hose, check the routing for trapped sections and clear any obstruction before assuming the drain pump has failed.
8
The Appliance Trips The RCD Or Blows The Fuse
Water escaping from an internal hose can reach the wiring harness, the circulation pump or the heating element terminals, causing an earth leakage fault. If the supply trips shortly after a cycle begins, isolate the appliance immediately, drain the base tray and inspect all electrical connections for moisture before restoring power. Never run the machine again until the source of the water has been identified and repaired.
9
Wash Performance Has Gradually Declined
The dishes are still washed but results are noticeably poorer than they used to be, with cloudy glasses and residue on the crockery. Reduced flow through a partially blocked internal hose means the wash water is not circulating as it should. Clean the filters and spray arms, check the hose bore, and confirm the circulation pump is running correctly before replacing any parts.
Before Ordering, Check These First
Disclaimer: The fault codes and symptoms listed above are intended as a general guide to assist with diagnosis. They cannot be taken as a definitive diagnosis of any particular problem, and other components may produce similar symptoms. Always confirm the fault with proper testing before ordering parts. |
|---|---|
| Alternate Part Number | 0120200672, HVR49091816, 5055004954885, H0120200672 |
| Manufacturer | CAN |
| Genuine Part | Yes |
Dishwasher Spare Parts.
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Common Symptoms & Likely Parts
- Won’t start → door interlock, control board
- Water not heating → heating element, thermostat
- Poor cleaning → spray arms, circulation pump
- Not draining → drain pump, pressure switch
- Leaking → door seal, sump gasket, inlet valve
- Error codes → sensor or wiring harness
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Ask A Parts SpecialistExpert Diagnosis • Technical Sourcing • Established 1988
Haier Group Specialist
Candy
Spare Parts.
The Candy Group was historically one of Europe’s most significant appliance producers. Now part of the global Haier Group, Candy machines share technical DNA with Hoover and various other international brands, requiring precision sourcing to ensure compatibility.
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Candy appliances undergo frequent mid-production updates. To identify the correct spare part with total certainty, the Serial Number is increasingly mandatory. Visual appearance can be deceptive as technical specifications evolve over time.
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Our relationship with Candy spans over 30 years. We understand the technical nuances of their older Italian-built machines as well as the modern Haier-platform units. This legacy knowledge is vital for identifying functional spares that actually fit.
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Contact Support TeamCandy Technical Expert • Haier Group Platform Specialist • Established 1988
UK'S Professional Appliance Spare Part Network • Established 1988
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