Description

The door seal, also known as the door gasket or door bellows, is the large moulded rubber ring that sits between the front of the drum and the door aperture of a front-loading washing machine. Its job is to form a flexible, watertight barrier that keeps water inside the drum throughout the fill, wash, rinse, and spin phases, while still allowing the door to open and close freely.

The seal is moulded with a series of folds and a flexible lip that presses against the door glass when the door is shut, and on most models it also incorporates a drain hole or channel at the bottom that lets any water collected in the folds run back into the drum rather than escaping onto the floor. Because the seal moves every time the door is used and is permanently in contact with water, detergent and heat, it is one of the most heavily worked rubber components in the appliance. A correctly matched seal seats evenly around the aperture, holds the door firmly against the drum and restores a reliable watertight join between the two.

Door seals fail gradually, and the earliest symptoms are easy to miss. The most common complaint is a small amount of water appearing under the front of the machine after a wash, which gradually becomes a steady drip as the seal deteriorates further. Running a finger around the inside of the folds usually reveals the cause: black mould, a slit or pinhole, or a section where the rubber has hardened and no longer presses against the door glass. A perished seal lets water escape where the door closes, and the constant damp behind it will eventually reach the door hinge, the wiring, and the base of the appliance.

On some machines, a failing seal shows up as a scraping or squealing noise during the spin cycle, because the drum has begun to catch on the softened rubber. A seal that has stretched or shrunk will prevent the door from closing squarely, so the interlock cannot engage, and the cycle will not start. Torn or detached seals can also allow small items of clothing to get trapped between the drum and the door, causing further damage to the fabric and the seal itself. Replacing a worn seal restores a proper watertight seal, protects the door interlock and wiring from water damage, and stops the damp, musty smell a mouldy seal leaves in the drum.

Technical Notes

Specifications: Compatible replacement washing machine door seal (door gasket / door bellows), manufactured from a flexible moulded rubber compound that is resistant to hot water, detergent and repeated flexing. The seal incorporates the moulded lip that presses against the door glass, the drain channel or weep hole at the base that allows collected water to return to the drum, and the mounting bead that secures it to the front of the drum. Retained by an internal wire hoop or spring at the drum side, with the outer lip secured to the front panel or door surround. Supplied as the seal only, without the door, hinge or interlock. Product code: 43028103.

Fitment guidance: This door seal is compatible with the Candy, Hoover, Haier and Zerowatt models shown in the compatibility sections below. Model numbers are found on the rating plate, which is usually located inside the door aperture, on the rear of the appliance, or behind the filter flap. Match the complete model number, including any numbers shown in brackets and any suffixes, and compare the shape of the seal against your original before ordering — door seals of a similar diameter can differ in the position of the drain hole, the depth of the folds and the mounting bead profile. Compatibility with Haier and Zerowatt washing machines is confirmed, but specific model numbers for those two brands are not listed; please check your model number with our team to confirm fitment before ordering.

Diagnostic tip: Before ordering, open the door and run a finger around the whole circumference of the seal, easing the folds apart as you go. Look for splits, pinholes, hardened or shiny patches, and the black mould that typically collects in the lower fold. Check the drain hole or channel at the bottom of the seal is clear, as a blocked drain channel will cause water to overflow the seal even if the rubber itself is sound. Close the door on a strip of paper at several points around the circumference and pull gently: the paper should resist evenly all the way round, and any point where it slides out freely indicates a section of seal that is no longer gripping. Check that the door closes squarely and that the hinge is not worn, and inspect the front panel and drum lip for rust or distortion. If the machine leaks only at high spin speeds, look for a seal that is gripping correctly but has hardened rather than a crack or split.

Installation guide: 1. Switch off and unplug the appliance, or isolate the dedicated circuit at the consumer unit, and turn off the water supply. 2. Remove the top lid and, where necessary, the front panel or plinth to gain access to the drum and the seal mounting. 3. Open the door and peel the outer lip of the seal away from the front panel or door surround. 4. Release the wire hoop or spring that secures the inner bead of the seal to the drum, using a flat-bladed screwdriver or pliers, and take care not to let it spring away. 5. Ease the seal off the drum lip and detach it from the front panel, working around the circumference a section at a time. 6. Clean the drum lip, the front panel flange and the aperture thoroughly, removing any scale, detergent residue or rust. 7. Fit the new seal onto the drum lip first, checking that the locating marks or drain hole sit at the bottom and that the moulded bead seats evenly all the way round. 8. Refit the wire hoop or spring, working around the circumference so the bead is drawn evenly onto the drum lip. 9. Stretch the outer lip over the front panel or door surround and check that it sits flat with no twists, and that the drain hole is at the lowest point. 10. Refit the front panel, lid and plinth, restore the power and water, and run a short cycle with the door closed, checking for weeping at the seal, correct door closure and that the interlock engages normally.

Safety note: Always isolate the electrical supply before working on a washing machine, as mains voltage is present inside the cabinet. Residual water in the drum, sump and hoses can be hot and may contain detergent, so allow the machine to cool and drain before opening it up. The wire hoop that retains the seal is under tension and can spring out sharply, so keep your face and hands clear when releasing it and wear eye protection. Do not cut or trim a new seal to make it fit, and do not use sealant around the gasket, as this prevents the seal sitting correctly and will cause further leaks.

RO 1284DWMCE/1-9 (31019614), RO 1284DWMCT/1-S (31018867), RO 1284DWME/1-S (31010344), RO 1284DWMST/1-S (31018871), RO 1284DWMT/1-S (31018846), RO 1294DWME/1-S (31010366), RO 1294DWMT/1-S (31018880), RO 14104DWME/1-S (31010367), RO 14104DWMT/1-S (31018844), RO 1484DWME-88 (31019158), RO 1486DWMCT/1-S (31018825), RO 1494DWME1S, RO 1494DWMCT1S, RO 1496DWMCE-88 (31019121), RO16106DWMCRE80

Compatible with Haier washing machines. Specific model numbers are not listed for this brand — please check your model number with our team to confirm fitment.

HW 210AMBS/1 (31011399), HWE 410AMBS/1-S (31010282), HW411AMBCB/1-80, HWB49AMC180, HW49XMBB1S, HWB69AMBCR/1-80

Compatible with Zerowatt washing machines. Specific model numbers are not listed for this brand — please check your model number with our team to confirm fitment.